With yesterday 's storm, I juggled phones and schedules all day. We pumped out basements, repaired several roof leaks, reinforced windows straining from high winds and researched sump pumps for a client. I realized others could use the information in case we have another wet spring, so here's a summary of ways to keep your home dry.
Please let me know what other home maintenance topics you need help with. Good luck staying dry!
Tina Gleisner, Your Handy Woman
Keeping Water Out of Your House
For every inch of rain, the average roof sheds 1,000 gallons of water. You can imagine how much standing water will pool around your foundation, and find ways to get into your home. Gutters are key to catching and directing this water away from your home. Other solutions listed here will help minimize water entering your basement.
Gutters - direct water to downspouts, which should extend at least 4 feet away from your foundation
Grading - the area around the house should slope away at least 2 ½ inches in 10 feet
Foundation cracks - in masonry walls can be repaired using hydraulic cement
Window wells - need gravel for good drainage and/or covers to divert water away
Driveways/walkways - should always slope away from the house
Landscaping - should be designed to allow water near the foundation to evaporate.
Managing Water Inside Your Home
You need to remove water quickly to minimize the risk of mold, mildew, termites and other unhealthy side effects. Many of the following projects are fairly easy to implement:
Dehumidifiers - remove water from hot, humid air. Save time by installing the unit on a wall near the utility sink, so it can drain continuously
Insulation - should be wrapped around cold-water tanks, water piping and cold air ducts to reduce water condensation
Waterproofing - can be accomplished by painting concrete walls and
floors with 2 coats of a water-locking, masonry paint like Drylok. Lots
of color choices - make sure to pick the right product, i.e. walls and
floors have different requirements.
Keeping Your Basement Dry
When you find inches of water in your basement, a sump pump can remove the water quickly. A portable (floor sucker) pump works well if this happens rarely, i.e. when the hot water heater breaks. If you are getting water every few years, a sump pump provides cost effective peace of mind. All pumps use some type of float activated switch that turns the pump on when the water reaches a certain height. They should also have a check valve to insure water doesn't flow backwards from the water outlet pipe.
Selection - permanent pump choices include upright or submersible, plastic or cast iron and electric powered versus water powered (sometimes installed as a backup system). Choose according to the frequency and volume of water you anticipate - a 1/3 horsepower pump is satisfactory for most homes and ½ hp will pump more volume. For more details, visit the Sump Pump Info web site.
Installation - requires a sump pit (roughly 2 feet square and 2 feet
deep) in the basement floor, a discharge pipe (into dry well or storm
drain at least 20 feet away from the house), an electrical outlet with
GFI. A sump pump cover will help eliminate odors and keep debris from
falling on top of the pump. If you already have a sump pit, the
installation should go fairly quickly. Removing concrete and digging
the hole might take an experienced handyman a day or more depending on
the thickness of the concrete.
Maintenance - should start with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Typically you want to test the pump every 2 to 3 months, or right
before each rainy season. Make sure the float is not restricted, that
the pump is discharging water and clean all screens/openings. Listen
for any strange noises from the motor.
Building Requirements for New Construction and Serious Water Problems
These techniques are best implemented during new construction (additions too). Existing homes with significant water problems will need a specialty contractor to add one/more of these solutions to an existing home.
Footing drains - include a 4 inch diameter perforated drainpipe embedded in gravel. The pipe needs to sit on top or alongside the footings, and below the basement slab
Foundations - should be waterproofed below ground level which is easily done before the site is backfilled
Perimeter/interior drains - involve perforated drainpipe, installed
over gravel, around the foundation. Water collected should be directed
to the sump pump for removal.
We appreciate your business and look forward to providing you with great information, products and special offers in the future.
With yesterday 's storm, I juggled phones and schedules all day. We pumped out basements, repaired several roof leaks, reinforced windows straining from high winds and researched sump pumps for a client. I realized others could use the information in case we have another wet spring, so here's a summary of ways to keep your home dry. 